Vogue 1697 "Gatsby" bias gown — Victoria Martinez

An invitation for a Gatsby-themed, black-dress-code bachelorette launched this dress.

an ideal dress for standing in stairways

Of course, being a bit of a fashion history nerd, my first dress thought on hearing this theme was true early twenties, or maybe a robe de style. Then I checked my thinking and realized that that’s not what most people mean when they say Gatsby. So I thought sleeker, and more modern, but I wanted a nod to fashion history in there. And what better nod to make than to acknowledge the wonders of Vionnet with a cut-on-the-bias, sewn-on-the-straight gown? (Maybe this nod feels a bit more 30s than 20s, but no matter.)

After much casting about, I found Vogue 1697 AND discovered that the print pattern was on clearance at the Simplicity website, making it cheaper (slightly tragically) to order online than to buy at the local Fabricland. I have to say, the customer service was so lovely?

I love the design’s long lines - the way pieces wrap so there are no side seams. I love that the halter top emerges from the long lines. It spoke to me.

I made the dress with a black rayon jacquard (2.4m of 110cm wide) I bought during a snowstorm in 2022 from a local who was destashing. We pushed three cars out of the slush during the shopping visit and we plotted pretty carefully to get my car out of all the ruts without also getting stuck. I thinks she charged me $5 for this lovely piece?? The jacquard pattern catches the light in a way I find quite satisfying for a bit of drama in this dress.

Given that this was my first go at a properly bias cut dress, I was fairly painstaking in my cutting efforts, and cut everything flat, tracing onto the fabric with the patterns as well weighted as I could muster (coffee table books and textbooks are practical in a sewing home) on the floor. The cutting was the most challenging part, and because I was working with sliiiightly less fabric than called for (~2.4m of 150 cm width), there was some piecing required to make a full length gown. I did the piecing in the cutting process, and actually sewed additional scraps in the necessary places to cut the pieces that didn’t quite fit out.

After this, the dress came together easily and wonderfully. Were I to do it again, I would interface all of the edges of the halter neck right after cutting as I think this area stretched a fair amount even with stay-stitching. There is a constant threat and reality of side-boob, managed with tape for security. I also might think about making the straps less stretchy/ stretching them out THOROUGHLY before attaching.

Regardless of the small tweaks for a next time, this dress feels just great to wear. It’s soft, it’s slinky, it’s got drama! And I finally found a cowl I like on myself (keep it away from my face lol).

Pattern: Vogue 1679
Size Made: 12
My measurements: full+high bust 34, hips 39
Fabric: rayon jacquard from a local destash
Next time: interface along seamline on all the halter edges immediately after cutting. immediately. Maybe make a shorter one! Think about addressing the stretchiness of the straps!

All photos in this post by Hannah Alex Photography