Squid shorts, squid shirt

I found a measly meter of this handprinted, huge squid print fabric at my fav thrift store and knew immediately it should be a fun little fit. Definitely somewhat inspired by @fivespicepower. The question was… How to fit the pieces of the fit on the fabric while also avoiding any deeply unfortunate print placements? What fit would allow it??

After a bit of rearranging pattern pieces on the small yardage, I settled on a simple boxy tee circa 1989, McCall’s 4299, for the top, and my go-to shorts pattern, Butterick 9779 (made previously here and modified here). Both required mild alterations to work given the constraints, but I was also determined to make this a quick and easy sew. So:

For the shorts, it was a given from the get-go that I’d be doing a no-hem solution. The border print was just such an obvious choice for bottom-of-the-shorts, and it would save a good inch and change. To make that work without a tonne of bunching, I put twill tape in at the non-hem and it basically helps it keep its shape. Everything was as dictated by the pattern, and I did a lapped zipper following the excellent Reader’s Digest complete guide to sewing instructions. NOTE TO SELF STOP using invisible zippers when possible. Lapped zippers are easier and cleaner most of the time!

Oh also as per uzh I did a ban-rol waistband. I didn’t think to ensure it also lapped, so I had to make a weird little zip/hook guard right at the top to bridge the gap. But I used contrasting fabric as that was the convenient scrap! It’s totally fine and entirely non-noticeable unless you’re a weird sewing person searching for those tell tale signs. And maybe even not then?

For the shirt, the main mod was to cut the back piece in two rather than on the fold. This just helped the jig-sawing. The other was using a bias finish on the neckline, instead of the facing piece, which is what I usually do now. I can’t remember if I had to adjust length or sleeves, but if so, it would have been just cheating the placement and not a notable change to the pattern as written.

Fabric: “Handprinted in Hawaii”
Notions: thrifted polka dot bias tape, thrifted standard zip, 2 small hooks and eyes, twill tape, “Always sweaty” label, ban-rol
My Measurements: 30 waist, 39 hip, 34 hi and full bust

The shorts
Pattern: Butterick 9779, medium height, shortest shorts
Size Made: 25 waist graded to 30 waist
Next time: STOP using invisible zippers when possible. Lapped zippers are easier and cleaner most of the time!

The top
Pattern: McCall’s 4299
Size Made:
Next time: make as is! this one has a good neckline!