50s pussy-bow blouse Butterick 5432

Found this silk shirting from Our Social Fabric and bought it without a plan. However, in the fall I pulled it out and thought the colours would be lovely for a Christmas top but that could be worn well beyond. I in fact finished this top Christmas day, a final bit of rush so that it could be done and I could match with the bow tie hair accessory I made my daughter as a gift.

The pattern is Butterick 5432, which the Vintage Sewing Patterns fandom lists as being circa 1950. I have long been drawn to it for the pussy bow and overall midcentury shape. Glad to have finally made it up as the fit is excellent and gives me confidence for future experiments in drafting interesting necklines (which i’m certain will someday happen)

I made up view A with the view B collar - a slight error as the view A has a neat little jog in the button placket for a slit collar. It actually works dandy with the collar but boy was I stressed when I realized. I also cheated the shoulder part of the armscye seams a bit smaller to make room for my no full bust/high bust measurement difference shoulders. Otherwise, the pattern is made as written, including not interfacing the button placket beyond the shirt and facing layers there. So far, this hasn’t caused me any issues and i’m fingers crossing it stays that way. I’m also handwashing this blouse as I have the feeling that the collar ties could get caught and cause damage in washing. Anyway, silk is strong when it’s dry so I’m feeling good about it.

My other suprise in making this up was that the cuffs are french cuffs, which I truly did not notice until they were basically sewed on. A nice surprise for me because I love my Transformers french cuffs. Also a good reminder to throw french cuffs on long sleeves, it’s so easy!

The front closure is done up with black pearl snaps, I just liked their look better than my black buttons. I bought these a while back for a western shirt that misfired and was never finished, so it’s nice to salvage them.

The bow is hand-finished, with a little rolled hem. Now that I don’t suck at them, I love the way a rolled hem comes together and looks. Zipping the stitches tight is just magically satisfying. I feel like this bow has lovely proportions, and the body of this crisp silk works super well to support it. Plus, somehow a busy fabric pattern makes the bow feel less loud to me. Satisfying stuff all around

Materials: “Pierre Cardin” silk shirting from Our Social Fabric, black pearl snaps - bought new either locally or from Wawak, thread of some description
Pattern: Butterick 5432, view A with the view B collar
My measurements: 34” high and full bust, 30” waist. Used slightly smaller seams at shoulder points
Size made: 34” bust
Worn with: DIY Rachel Comey pants