Rose Cafe Bustier — Victoria Martinez

Holy crap did this suck to make. Mostly user error.

tracing the seamline on the back for accuracy.

I def started by printing the wrong size, but at this point I’ve tossed all my physical pattern pieces bc if I ever decide to make this again it will have to be from scratch. I took out several inches from the size I did print, and i tried the cups I measured for and sized down for those. Thought the new (smallest available) A cups did in fact fit, but I was wrong.

Uh ok so after cutting everything out once and then again from what I’d previously cut, I got going and that was kind of pleasant, until I pulled the zipper pull right off the top of my trimmed zipper, and ended that night just laying on the floor staring at the ceiling in frustration, because sewing time is limited and what a way to go out.

Sent my husband for the same zipper but decided to spring to have them shorten it in store, because I assumed if I was paying to have a plastic zipper shortened, they’d move the stops. This was not part of the service. Money wasted, whatever.

A few weeks later I finally had an evening to do the zipper and… I had to sew it in 3-4 times on each side. I don’t know what was up with me, it just was very sucky and everything was wrong. Also I pulled the pull off again. Sitting, staring at this mess, I realized oh this is a separating zipper it’s literally so easy to get back on you don’t have to even put it on from the bottom WHAT THE HECK past me. More money and plastic, gone to waste!

Also to note: the zipper still is pretty uneven and not that great looking. I also sewed the lining on not quite right so the tops didn’t manage to line up but I couldn’t bring myself to unpick anymore so I just… resewed it in a weird way that in the end looks fine when it’s done up. Also at this point could not make heads or tails of parts of the video instructions (I hate video instructions, but had decided I needed to refer to them bc I’m feeling sewing-rusty and the video is for the bodice-only adjustment) (this was dumb, i should have used the clearer-to-me written instructions; the difference between dress and bodice zipper insertion is not that wild) and did another thing wrong with respect to the zip and the lining, and so improvised from here on out.

Which, honestly, worked out great because I know how to sew, actually, why did I just not trust myself earlier?

Lining is folded back and topstitched at the zip. Lining and outer are just zig-zagged together flat at the bottom, reducing bulk and giving me a touch more length (1 cm) than I would have had, had i sewn inside out and turned. This also allowed me to add a beautiful bit of vintage lace for a touch more length and a lovely finish.

And I finished the thing with handwork, attaching that lace as invisibly as possible by hand. I also added bias tape over one seam on the inside because after all the handling of fitting errors and zipper errors it was already going torn.

And somehow, with the cups in, I found that the top of the bodice was wildly sagging out. So… I added darts on each side. Just like, through the bodice and lining. Topstitched the top of the bustier so those wouldn’t flap around weird and for extra support of all the seams ending at the top. And the cups are still too big! So I’m actually wearing silicone bra inserts here for shaping.

WHATEVER I say. At least the photos are cute, and I’ve brought my vision to life, and that’s something, at least.

Size made: I don’t know! A cup.
Measurements: 34 full bust, 32 under bust, 30 waist
Fabric and notions: Mystery thrifty houndstooth found secondhand somewhere, silky polyester leopard print lining found at Nefelibata, a bit of bias tape, polyester thread (new), lightweight interfacing (new), vintage lace from Nadine’s Touch in Grand Digue
Worn with: BHL Holly trousers